Spectators watch one band trying to outplay the other, each marching trooper attempting to look sharpest and the commanders of the guard making every effort not to be "left at the post" following the handshake phase of the ceremony.

The official business at hand is routine. It's the little things that mean a lot. Hundreds of spectators from both sides of the Iron Curtain are not interested in hearing the Russian commander tell his American counterpart (in Russian), "Mr Captain, the Soviet troops are ready to turn over the guard." And they are less interested in the reply, "Sir, the American troops are ready to take over the guard."

The next maneuver, a simple facing movement, does attract their attention - because competition is involved. At the conclusion of the exchange of words, the officers salute each other and race to execute an about face. To some change-over "veterans," victory in the ceremony hinges on this movement. The first man to turn about wins. The slow man is left saluting the back of the others head for a fleeting moment.

Comments 'Fly'

When the captains start pacing toward their troops, the comments start flying: "The Russian got licked that time" or "the American captain was saluting the Russian's back."

Because the Soviet officer does not drop his hand until he returns to his soldiers, he has a decided advantage. The American must bring his right hand to his side before turning.

Each nation enters 60 musicians in the "battle of the bands." Except for the January 1 switch of control, each group plays a concert prior to the official opening of ceremonies while the dignitaries are arriving at the front door of the Hofburg Palace. In January, the weather is too cold for the outdoor concert.

The bands always try to outdo each other when accompanying the two 30-man platoons of marching troops and when playing the national anthems of both nations.

Competition Keen

Competition is also keen in the selection of march music. As far as Vienna's "coalition" newspaper Neues Österreich was concerned, the United States won the last change-over, December 30, by playing the Radetzky Marsch, an old Austrian favorite by Johann Strauss. "The Viennese did not merely smile; they were charmed by the idea," the paper stated. "Thus, the so-well-known-to-us play of the 'Love of the Four Generals' remains on the political program; only the melody is new."

Prior to the procession, military policemen are placed around the Heldenplatz, which is decorated by statues of old Austrian Army generals and a picture of Stalin and Lenin above the entrance to a Russian officers' club. The MPs assist dignitaries as they arrive at the front door of the Hofburg palace, where the reviewing stand is located.

The Soviet band and platoons of soldiers arrive and take their places to one side of a mounted statue of Prince Eugen and facing the palace. The uniform of the Russian soldier is drab compared to the bandsmen, whose jackets have purple breasts and red trimming.

After the Russians are set, the American musicians and military police march into the square and stop on the other side of the statue. Chrome-plated bayonets and white rifle slings and scabbards make the US soldier far flashier than the Soviets.

The guard commanders face each other and walk toward the center of the area. The American walks at a natural pace, while the Russian goose steps and holds a salute the entire 50 yards.

After the captains return, the generals take their positions on the reviewing stand. The "Internationale" and "Star Spangled Banner" are played. Representatives of both countries salute as each is played.

Soviet troops march off the Heldenplatz and form six abreast. They then pass in review carrying their rifles so that the points of their bayonets almost graze the necks of the men in front. The USSR band likewise passes the reviewing stand. An assembly of Russians applauds rhythmically as the Soviets march away.

In January's change-over, snow fell from the start of the ceremony until the instant that CWO Leslie Harkness ordered the combined 49th and 149th Army bands to strike up the music. The sun broke through the clouds, and the photographers closed-down shutters as the Americans passed in review.

Sedans filed past the palace and picked up dignitaries as the troops left the square.

On the reviewing stand, the generals pose a striking contrast. Brig Gen William H. Nutter, Vienna Cmd CG, wears the conventional US Army officers semi-dress uniform. But Maj Gen Molotkov sports a double-breasted multicolored creation that would bedazzle an usher at Yankee Stadium.

"Taking the review" with the generals at the January change (which took place on December 30 by mutual consent) were Col Seiss E. Wagner and Capt Ralph A. George of the United States and Lt Col Uryev and Capt Neyedala of the USSR. Troop commanders were Capt Frank M. Robbins and Senior Lt Kamorny. The Soviet band leader was Major Shirinsky. Men from the 61st, 64th and 65th MP companies form the American element.

Difference in Discipline

Americans attending the ceremonies are usually interested in the sound of Russian commands and the difference between the discipline of the American and Russian MPs who surround the area. Soviet policemen stand their posts at what US soldiers consider "at ease," while Americans remain at attention.

What the crowd is especially eager to see is embarrassing situations - and they arise frequently. Almost a year ago the trouser legs of an American officer became unbloused during the ceremony. On another occasion, the hat of a Soviet officer blew off. "He's on his way to Siberia" and similar comments were sounded in the US section of the "stands."

Before one of the first change-overs, the Soviets were fixing up the huge red star, within which are pictures of Lenin and Stalin. Newsreel, television, radio and press representatives were on hand to see what extravaganza the Soviets had created. After a workman descended the ladder, a signal was given and the display lighted up magnificently. A few minutes later, however, every bulb blew out.

4-Nation Function

But the game is not limited to the USSR and the United States. France and England also enjoy a bit of sport. Last time the French were involved, they stole the show by using a platoon of ski troopers in white uniforms. The British frequently use a trick ceremonial march to grab the spotlight, and in 1953 brought in a bagpipe band fresh from the coronation of Queen Elizabeth to capture that year's honors.

Competition during the Vienna change-over is almost as intense as that of Olympic games, and stirs up about as much interest among the participants and spectators.

See the Gallery page for pictures of the change-over ceremonies.